Gray blown cellulose next to white blown fiberglass on an attic floor

Cellulose vs. Fiberglass Insulation: Which Is Better for Your Home?

Both are proven, affordable materials. The right choice depends on where the insulation goes and what problem you are solving.

BCI Group Team

· Westborough, MA

Key takeaways

  • Cellulose has a slightly higher R-value per inch than loose fiberglass and resists air flow better.
  • Dense-pack cellulose is the standard for insulating existing closed walls.
  • Fiberglass does not absorb water and settles less; batts suit open framing.
  • Both are treated or inherently fire-resistant when installed correctly.

The materials

  • Cellulose is made mostly from recycled paper, treated with fire retardants (commonly borates). It is blown in as loose-fill or dense-pack.
  • Fiberglass is made from spun glass fibers. It comes as batts and rolls or as loose-fill for blowing.

Head to head

CelluloseFiberglass
R-value per inch (loose)About R-3.2 to R-3.8About R-2.2 to R-2.9
Batts availableNoYes
Air flow resistanceHigherLower
Dense-pack in closed wallsYes, the standardSome products, less common
SettlingLoose-fill settles moreSettles less
MoistureAbsorbs some, can dryDoes not absorb
Fire behaviorTreated with fire retardantsGlass fibers are non-combustible
Recycled contentHighVaries

Where cellulose shines

  • Existing walls: Dense-pack cellulose is the go-to method for insulating closed walls in older homes, through small holes and without demolition. It fills every void and slows air leaks inside the wall. See dense-pack cellulose.
  • Attic floors: Blown cellulose covers irregular framing and resists air flow, which helps in cold weather.
  • Sloped ceilings and floors over garages: dense-packed into closed cavities.

Where fiberglass shines

  • Open framing: Batts are fast and economical in new construction and renovations, when installed carefully and paired with air sealing. See fiberglass batt mistakes.
  • Attic floors where a lighter material is preferred or where moisture exposure is a concern.
  • Projects where the client prefers non-paper materials.

Common questions

Does cellulose settle?

Loose-fill cellulose settles somewhat after installation; reputable installers blow it deep enough to reach the target R-value after settling, as shown on the bag's coverage chart. Dense-packed cellulose is installed at a density that resists settling.

Is cellulose a fire risk?

Cellulose is treated with fire retardants to meet safety standards. Like any insulation, it must be kept away from heat sources such as chimneys and non-IC-rated light fixtures.

What about moisture?

Neither material should be installed in wet areas. Cellulose can absorb some moisture and dry out again; fiberglass does not absorb water but loses performance when wet. The real answer is to fix moisture sources and air leaks first.

The bigger factor

Installation quality and air sealing matter more than the choice between these two materials.

Our recommendation

For most existing Massachusetts homes, we use dense-pack cellulose for walls and blown cellulose or fiberglass for attic floors, always after air sealing. In new construction, fiberglass batts, blown-in-blanket systems or spray foam depending on the goals and budget.

Where each performs better in cold weather

Some field research has suggested that loose-fill fiberglass at low density can lose some effective R-value in very cold attics because of air movement within the insulation, while cellulose, being denser, resists this. Covering loose fiberglass with a denser layer or using higher-density products addresses the issue. Either way, air sealing below the insulation matters most.

Environmental considerations

FactorCelluloseFiberglass
Recycled contentVery high (paper)Varies (recycled glass)
Embodied energyGenerally lowHigher
Dust during installMoreLess
Fire treatmentBorates and other retardantsInherently non-combustible fibers

Pests and borates

Borate treatment in cellulose is also known for deterring some insects. That does not make cellulose a pest control product, but it is one reason cellulose is popular in older New England homes.

Mixing materials in one attic

It is common to add cellulose over old fiberglass or fiberglass over old cellulose. What matters is that the old material is dry and clean, that air sealing is done first and that the final depth reaches the target R-value.

What we hear from homeowners

Homeowners who choose cellulose often mention its recycled content and air-flow resistance. Those who choose fiberglass often prefer a lighter, non-paper material. Both groups end up with warm, efficient attics when the installation is done right.

Talk to us

BCI Group installs cellulose and fiberglass with our own crews. Call (774) 278-8256 or request a free estimate.

Frequently asked questions

Is cellulose better than fiberglass for attics?

Both work well. Cellulose has a slightly higher R-value per inch and resists air movement better; fiberglass settles less and does not absorb water.

Which is better for existing walls?

Dense-pack cellulose is the standard for insulating closed walls in older homes.

Can I put cellulose on top of fiberglass?

Yes. New cellulose is commonly blown over existing fiberglass after air sealing.

Is cellulose safe?

It is treated with fire retardants and is widely used. Keep it away from heat sources as required by code.

Which costs more?

Costs are similar for loose-fill attic work. Dense-pack walls and batts in open framing are priced differently because the labor differs.

Services mentioned in this article

Blown-In Cellulose near you in Massachusetts

BCI Group crews work in these communities every week. See local details for blown-in cellulose in your town:

BCI Group Team

Written by the BCI Group team in Westborough, MA: insulation installers, HERS raters and energy advisors who have worked in Massachusetts homes since 2016. We install spray foam, cellulose, fiberglass and mineral wool, run blower door tests and help homeowners, churches and nonprofits use Mass Save® incentives.

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